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“It’s only a temporary marriage anyway,” she shrugged, smiling.

Temporary marriages, or Sigheh, are used by lots of Iranian couples for lots of different purposes; a marriage can last from an hour to a decade and a dowry, traditionally, has to be paid.

We talked on the beach and I leveled with her; I had fallen in love with her country, and with her.

A couple of months later I saw her again: she flew out to join me for a backpacking adventure in India and we raced a multicolored rickshaw 2500km across the country.

The snow came thick and fast, making my planned hikes almost impossible, and I abandoned the mountains, sending a quick Whats App message and heading back to the highway. Pack a bag and let’s explore Iran together.” To my delight, she said yes.

We parted ways, unsure if we would see each other again.

Once in Kurdistan, I found myself thinking of Esme.

I lingered, unsure what to do, aware of the many people around us and the police just across the street, before thinking ‘fuck it’ and pulling her into an alleyway for a cheeky kiss.

She had to leave, of course, and I had plans to check out Iranian Kurdistan.

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